NYC Fashion is at the Center of Cool

Here's an interesting twist on the "Kevin Baconsensitive to his father's pride and his family's
Game" for you: what is the connection betweenmilitary tradition, he started going by his initials in
NYC fashion and the reign of the 16th-Centuryorder to spare the Tyrtov family any
Russian Czar known to history as Ivan Theembarrassment.
Terrible?Erte's influence on NYC fashion was soon to be
You may never have heard of Roman Petrovichfelt; in 1915, only twenty-three years old, he was
Tyrtov, but if you enjoy old movie musicals fromhired by the first American fashion magazine,
the 30s or are a devotee of early BroadwayHarper's Bazaar - a publication which still reports
theatre, you know him by his initials, "R.T." - or asanything and everything you want to know about
it was pronounced in French, "Erte."NYC fashion.
Czar Ivan IV (who was probably no more or lessAlthough first hired by Hollywood, prominent New
"terrible" than any of his contemporaries) wasYork producers Florenz Ziefield and George White
notable for transforming Russia from a smallsoon took note of Erte's designs. Erte was the
medieval kingdom into a vast, multi-ethnic empire;creator of the lavish, Art-Deco themed costumes
Erte's earliest known ancestors were part of thisthat adorned Ziegfield's girls in his Follies of 1923
ruler's court and inner circle. Erte's father, Pyotras well as George White's Scandals.
Ivanovich, was a Russian Fleet admiral and headedSadly, Erte's contribution to NYC fashion over the
the Russian Ministry of the Navy under Czarcourse of his 97-year lifespan is largely forgotten
Nikolai Romanov just prior to the Russo-Japanesetoday; in fact, the largest collection of Erte's work
War.is to be found not in New York, but in Tokyo.
It was into this remarkable family that a boy whoNonetheless, Erte's sleek designs continue to
would grow up to define NYC fashion during theinfluence the world of NYC fashion well into the
Art Deco period was born in St. Petersburg on 2321st century. And for modern women who feel
November 1892.pressured to measure up to a corporate definition
As you might imagine, Erte's father had otherof beauty in a commercialized world, here is some
ambitions for him than that of a fashion designer.advice from the master himself: "A resourceful
However, the young man named Roman had nowoman who is almost downright plain can achieve
desire to pursue a naval career, and left home atthe reputation of a beauty simply by announcing
the age of 18 to go to Paris and become ato everybody she meets that she is one."
designer of fine women's clothing. Nonetheless,That could be one philosophy behind NYC fashion.