I Love Touring Paris - the Second Arrondissement

The second arrondissement is situated on thesite of the first production of Bizet's Carmen in
Right Bank of the Seine River. It is Paris's smallest1875 initially considered quite a failure. It was also
arrondissement, covering less than 0.4 squarethe premiere of the only Debussy opera, Pelleas
miles (slightly under a square kilometer). Itset Melisande in 1902.
population is under twenty thousand, but thisThe Avenue de l'Opera (also known as the
district provides over sixty thousand jobs, thePassage de l'Opera, or as Le Rue Peletier or Le
highest job density in the city. This district isPeletier) is a street named after the Theatre de
home to all of Paris's remaining glazed commerciall'Academie Royale de Musique, known more
arcades; pedestrian passages open at both endscommonly as the Paris Opera, which burned down
with a glass and iron roof. This Parisian invention,in 1873. In 1875 this theatre was replaced by the
actually an adaptation of Oriental bazaars andPalais Garnier, a theatre which is now known as
souks, forms a miniature city free from the noisethe Paris Opera.
of horse-drawn carriages, speeding taxis, andBuilt on the site of the city's old ramparts, the
inclement weather. When these arcades wereGrands Boulevards extend in a long arc from the
built mostly in the 1820s and 1830s sidewalksEglise de la Madeleine (Church of the Madeleine) in
were a rare commodity. Window-shoppingthe west to the Bastille in the east. They were
developed into yet another Parisian art form Inonce the hangout for Paris's upper crust and jet
these arcades. They evolved (degenerated) intosetters (more precisely Boulevard strollers) and
the suburban shopping center. Make sure to visitstill are a distinctive, often lively part of the city.
at least one arcade to get a taste of Paris in theThe actual street name changes from Boulevard
good old days.Madeleine, to Boulevard des Capucines, to
The Passage des Panoramas running offBoulevard des Italiens, to Boulevard Montmartre,
Boulevard Montmartre is of the earliest arcades,to Boulevard Poissoniere, to Boulevard Bonne
dating back to 1799. This was the first ParisianNouvelle, and finally to Boulevard St. Denis from
public area with gas lighting. On the other side ofwest to east. As you proceed from west to east
Boulevard Montmartre you'll find the more upscalethe boulevards tend to get poorer and perhaps
Passage Jouffroy, restored about twenty yearsmore interesting. Of course with all the
ago, a lovely mall that includes two very specialredevelopment the situation is constantly changing.
stores for young children.Do you know of any other city where a given
The Opera-Comique (Comic Opera) is astreet, avenue, or boulevard has seven names?
world-famous opera company located in the PlaceOf course you don't want to tour Paris without
Boieldieu, near the Paris Stock Exchange. In thesampling fine French wine and food. In my article I
year 1714 it was established to promote FrenchLove French Wine and Food - A Red Beaujolais I
opera in competition with the prevailing Italianreviewed such a wine and suggested a sample
opera of the day. In spite of its name, not all themenu: Start with Andouillette (Pork Tripe
productions were comic opera, especially duringSausage). For your second course savor Poulet
the Nineteenth Century. The current building wasde Bresse (Bresse Chicken). And as dessert
built in 1898, making it the oldest standing operaindulge yourself with Ile Flottante (Floating Island
house in Paris. Two previous incarnations burnt inMeringue). Your Parisian sommelier (wine steward)
1838 and 1887. Among its great composers werewill be happy to suggest appropriate wines to
Berlioz and Bizet. The Opera-Comique was theaccompany each course.